About Athens, I’ve heard everything – and nothing. Some told me about its bustling atmosphere, the young energy lifting the city, some only noticed its messy organization and dirty streets. Full of contrasts, uh? Like all places which leave their visitors with mixed (not to say contradictory) impressions, I thought the best thing to do was only to experience it myself.

Four days in May it is. Four days to taste again the freeing flavour of the solo escape. To reconnect with the pleasure of walking eyes up, Maps always at hand, of setting a whole program and not really following it, of strolling around small, steep streets in order to find the very perfect bakery.

Athens, indeed, is full of graffiti. It has the opulent charm of great capital cities – wide avenues, beautiful columned buildings, chic neighborhood – and its exact opposite, less gleaming, more deteriorated. As a lot of cities in southern Europe, it unfolds in a heavy and dusty hot air, observing the ballet of tourists dancing with the inhabitants’, smiling to see how authenticity resists, sheltered in the small, less visited streets.

I’ve explored Athens at my pace (understand: quite slow) for three days, looking for intimate places, nice neighborhoods and must-dos. Here are all my good addresses (tested and approved):

restaurants & bars

Manari Taverna

On a small square, white tablecloths, old lamps and a huge zinc counter. The meat is a real treat, the flavors are fresh and subtle, it’s affordable and the place is beautiful. My favorite address!

To Kafeneio

A discreet tavern on a sloping street at the foot of Anafiotika. The service is simple and pleasant, and the dishes are hearty and tasty. Perfect for enjoying mezze away from the hustle and bustle of the old town.

WAREHOUSE

A pleasant indus-style wine bar with a lovely terrace. They offer tapas and tartines for those tempted by an aperitif dinner. It’s on the Valtetsiou pedestrian street, which is packed with cool terraces!

Cafés

ERE

A café that is also a nice boutique, with an attractive selection of home decor and accessories. Located in a quiet area behind the Acropolis Museum, for a cool, sunny break.

Samba coffee roasters

This tiny specialty café has some outdoor seating, as well as cakes and pastries. Ideal for a morning takeaway flat white or whatever hot, tasty beverage before exploring the city.

Kora

A bakery/café at the foot of Mount Lycabette, just a few blocks away from a lovely church. Takeaway only. The feta/spinach puff pastry is a real delight, as is the cardamom roll!

Best local Places

Karavan

It’s impossible to stumble across Karavan by chance. This tiny baklava store, located just a few dozen meters from Syntagma Square, is well hidden. But it’s a must-stop, as much for its selection of sweets as for its picturesque atmosphere!

Takis Bakery

On the same street as the ERE café, the Takis bakery is one of the oldest in the capital. You’ll find both baklava and cookies, as well as puff pastries and bread… Inside, it’s warm and dark, and the smell rising from the stalls makes you very, very hungry.

coolest shops

Paraphernalia

One word: splendid. Paraphernalia brings together everything I love, from stationery to home decor, beautiful books, plants… A harmonious and refined selection, resolutely design and very tasteful.

Hyper Hypo

This small bookshop in the Psyrí district offers nothing but beautiful books: travel, photography, architecture, design, cooking… In other words, you can easily spend an hour browsing through them all!

The Naxos apothecary

It’s definitely impossible not to be drawn to the Naxos storefront, with its perfect blend of old and new. The place is beautiful, and is great to pick up souvenir cosmetics to bring back to your beloved ones.

Things to do

Acropolis Museum

Rather than climb the hill in the crowds, I preferred to observe the Acropolis from the museum, which offers a superb view on the temple. It’s also a paradise for architecture, history and antiquities lovers.

Mount Lycabette

A little classical, but a trip to Mount Lycabette is well worth the detour, at least for sunset. It’s crowded but pretty, and the walk back down into the blue hour is pleasant. And you can have a drink in the Exarchia district on arrival.

Covered market

My little pleasure: visiting the town halls. It’s a fascinating place, where you can observe traditions, interactions and get a real insight into local life. In Athens, the nicest part is the noisy and colorful fish market.

Bonus: A one day getaway to hydra Island

It wasn’t on the agenda, but after a chat with the girl at the hostel reception, I decided to take the boat and go on a day trip to the island of Hydra. Spoiler: I didn’t regret it.
It takes about 1h30 by boat to get there. You can take it from the Piraeus port (accessible by metro from the city center), via several companies. The easiest way to compare timetables and fares is via the website Ferry Hopper.

The dormition of the virgin

This former monastery, now home to the municipality and an art museum, is a little gem in the heart of Hydra harbor. Here you’ll find marble busts and columns, sublime vaults and a cheerful calm. A must-see!

Paradiosako

An unpretentious tavern with typical charm and a warm welcome. Special mention for the fennel tart, which was delicious, and for the picturesque view from its shady terrace in a lovely little street.

The Lemon Trees

This is (unfortunately) not a photo of the terrace of this bar / café . But with its retro cushioned armchairs and a lovely tree providing welcome shade, it’s the perfect place for a refreshing break!

Where to sleep?

When in athens

For those on a budget (like me), this hostel on Valtetsiou pedestrian street, right in the heart of the cool Exarchia district, is perfect. Modern and comfortable, it’s a safe bet.

Mona Athens

If I’d had more financial leeway, this is clearly where I’d have gone. Blame it on their far too stylish Instagram, or their ultra central location. Who knows. Anyway, I think it’s worth the visit.

Loom Athens

Another great address on my “to try on day” list is this little boutique hotel with a design and decor focus, and a colorful artistic direction that, personally, I really like.

If those addresses made you want to discover this iconic Mediterranean capital city, I gladly share with you my Athens Maps list, where they’re all gathered, along with a few more than are not featured in this article.

I also invite you to explore Hellenica and This is Athens websites, which are full of good tips and cool spots to help you prepare for your trip!

And if you’d like to receive my monthly inspirational newsletter filled with poetry, exclusive photos, and small, sweet things, join the mailing list right here.👇🏻

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