Venice, Venice. A mythical city, if ever there was one. Extremely romantic, at least in the collective imagination, and endowed with that aura unique to the grandeur of the past, where every street can become the setting for a thousand fantasies, brushing up against the real stories that have seeped into its walls.

What adds to Venice’s magic is the near certainty that our generation will one day see it submerged. We simply don’t know when. In how many decades, centuries, millennia? And will it truly happen, for that matter? Unable as we are to answer this question, a sense of urgency awakens in some: we must see Venice before it disappears.

Forgive me this little vanity, which led me, at the end of November, to set off to discover the city of the lagoon.

Venice is unique. Picturesque, if not a little dilapidated at times. Behind the many closed shutters lingers a sense of melancholy abandonment that makes you want to slip into the high-ceilinged rooms of those old palazzi and become a Venetian yourself for a little while.
Everything, of course, inspires wonder: the ogee-arched windows, the colorful façades, the staircases gnawed by the water, the church steeples leaning into the sky, the alleyways so narrow you couldn’t stretch out your arms. The bridges and empty boats are a feast for the eyes; the everyday life unfolding on the canals, left to our imagination, is a delight for the mind.

It goes without saying that to appreciate its authenticity, still palpable behind the images and places adored by fantasy and social media, you need to stray from the beaten path. Venice is far more than a few famous bridges and a legendary square. It is coffee drunk standing at the bar, groceries hauled around on the vaporetto, the rustic warmth of the Italians, life glimpsed through fogged-up windows, liqueur offered at the end of a meal, vast empty squares, cigarettes smoked in shop doorways.

Far from having uncovered all its secrets, here are a few of my favorite places in Venice (most of which I’ve tried and tested):

restaurants & bars

ENOTECA AI ARTISTI

A tiny restaurant with tablecloths and bottles of wine lining the walls. Yet there’s nothing stuffy about the place: the welcome is warm and the food delicious. A perfect balance of sophistication and authenticity. Give it a try!

AL VECIO MARANGON

It was the windows, like a moving painting, that drew me to this little spot tucked away on a street corner. Intimate and full of warmth, with impeccable service and an absolutely exquisite tiramisu.

ADAGIO

In this small bar on Piazza Frari, you’ll find mostly locals. Behind the counter, cheerful and attentive Italians. On the menu, typical wines and simple snacks – toast and cicchetti. What more could you ask for?

Cafés

BORESSO

To stumble upon Boresso by chance, you first have to get lost in the streets. There you’ll find a small counter and typical sandwiches, focaccia, mortadella, and Italian cheeses. Best of all, there are few, if any, stray tourists.

VENICE M’ART

For those who prefer a slightly more refined atmosphere, the café at the Venice Venice hotel is sure to delight. The lighting is soft, the music well chosen, and the view of the canal splendid. It’s the kind of place where you’ll happily linger.

PASTICCERIA TOLETTA

A pastry shop with a distinctly Italian feel! Coffee flows freely and is sipped without ceremony, standing at the counter. The croissants are crisp and wonderful, filled with all sorts of sweet delights. It’s hard to have just one.

Shops & CULTURE

ANTICA LEGATORIA OFER – EBRU

If you’re looking to bring back a souvenir from Venice that isn’t overly kitschy, you’ll love this little artisan shop. It sells handmade block-printed cards adorned with motifs typical of the city.

SCUOLA PICCOLA ZATTERE

A recent addition to the Venetian cultural scene, this foundation offers artist residencies, exhibitions, a library with a lovely reading area (the selection of art books is fantastic), and a waterfront café-restaurant.

from CLASSIcal to unusual

SANTA MARIA GLORIOSA

In addition to its symmetry, its impressive choir, chapels, and checkered floor that will charm any aesthete, what I loved most about this basilica was discovering its cloister (unfortunately not accessible during my visit).

CHIESA DI SAN ZACCARIA

The main attraction of this church is its crypt… partially underwater! It has a distinct Da Vinci Code atmosphere, which I found delightful.

SUPERMERCATO DESPAR TEATRO

Instead of playing tourist and sipping overpriced coffee in St. Mark’s Square, I wandered over to this supermarket housed in a former theater. It’s quite amusing to see the aisles arranged beneath the frescoes!

Things to do

Le Musée GRIMANI

The Grimani Museum is a small jewel where you can wander from room to room, admiring painted ceilings and traces of former splendor. Don’t miss the room at the back (the Tribune) which houses some sublime ancient sculptures and statues.

TEATRO LA fenice

If you can’t afford an evening at the opera, you can visit the hall during the day (paid entry). It’s a little trip to the land of stucco and chandeliers, where everything is red and gold. Not extraordinarily interesting, perhaps, but still beautiful, and it adds something to the myth of Venice.

le cannaregio

There’s no particular address to recommend here, but rather a leisurely stroll through this neighborhood, otherwise known as the “Jewish quarter.” The Fondamenta della Misericordia offers a peaceful atmosphere along the canal. It’s a district worth lingering in and returning to.

where to sleep?

PALAZZETO PISANI

Picturesque and ideally located, this former palazzo immerses you in a rococo and slightly exotic atmosphere, for a very reasonable price (at least in low season).

VENICE VENICE

My favorite. As representatives of post-Venetian culture, they embody modern Venice: design-driven, creative, and forward-looking. And it’s safe to say they’ve succeeded brilliantly.

If these little gems have made you want to visit the lagoon, I’ve put together a Venice Google Maps list where you’ll find them all, along with a few extra spots that aren’t mentioned in the article.

I also invite you to explore The Travel Folk website, which offers plenty of ideas to help you plan your trip.

And if you’d like to receive my monthly inspirational newsletter filled with poetry, exclusive photos, and small, sweet things, join the mailing list right here.👇🏻

In my ears